Kanga Katsu Sando

Lunch | Japanese

Prep time: 25 min Cook time: 14 min Servings: 4

The katsu sando is an iconic Japanese street food. This version swaps the traditional tonkatsu (pork cutlet) for kangaroo, which works brilliantly because the lean, slightly gamey meat stands up well to the punchy Bulldog mayo and the sharpness of lemon-dressed cabbage. Butterflying the fillet and opening it out flat gives you an even thickness across the whole piece, which means a more consistent cook and better crumbing all around. Stack it between thick slices of shokupan with pickled chillies and you have a great sandwich.

The Bulldog mayo is a mix of Kewpie, Bulldog tonkatsu sauce, cornichons, mustard seeds, mushroom shoyu and a pinch of MSG, and it’s the thing that ties the whole sandwich together. You can make it ahead and keep it in the fridge for the week. Kangaroo is best served medium-rare so keep an eye on your cook time and pull it off the heat as soon as the crust is deep golden brown.

This one was a collaboration with Zai from Oishi Mate, so make sure you check out his content on Instagram.

Ingredient Notes

Kangaroo fillet: Kangaroo fillet is incredibly lean with a mild gamey flavour that sits somewhere between venison and beef. It dries out and toughens quickly if overcooked, so medium-rare is the target here. Treat it more like a venison loin than a chicken breast. Most good butchers stock it, and it’s well worth seeking out. If you can’t get kangaroo, venison fillet or veal schnitzel are the closest substitutes in terms of texture and cooking time.

Panko breadcrumbs: Panko are Japanese breadcrumbs made from crustless white bread processed into coarse, irregular flakes. They create a lighter, crispier crust than regular breadcrumbs because the larger flake size means less surface area in contact with the oil, so less oil is absorbed. Always use panko for katsu. Standard fine breadcrumbs will give you a denser, oilier result that doesn’t have the same satisfying crunch. I look for Japanese-brand panko at the Asian grocery rather than supermarket versions, which tend to be finer.

Shichimi togarashi: Shichimi togarashi is a Japanese seven-spice blend typically containing dried chilli, sansho pepper, orange peel, sesame seeds, hemp seeds, ginger and nori. It adds heat and complexity to the kangaroo without overwhelming it. You’ll find it in most Asian grocery stores and many large supermarkets in the international aisle. A small sprinkle goes a long way, so start conservatively and season to taste. I use it both in the crumbing and as a finishing seasoning after frying.

Shokupan: If you can't get shokupan from your local store or bakery, here's my recipe to make it at home - https://www.andy-cooks.com/blogs/recipes/japanese-milk-bread.

Equipment

Chopping board
Chef’s knife
3 shallow bowls or trays (for flour, egg, panko)
Deep frying pan
Cooking thermometer (for oil temperature)
Wire rack over a tray
Small bowl (for the mayo)

Ingredients

1 loaf Shokupan
600g kangaroo fillet
Shichimi togarashi, to season
3 eggs, beaten
2 tbsp milk
plain flour
sea salt and black pepper
1½ cups (110g) panko breadcrumbs
peanut oil (or other neutral oil) for shallow frying
¼ green cabbage, finely shredded
juice of 1 small lemon
pickled green chillies, to serve
Bulldog mayonnaise
4 cornichons, finely chopped
⅓ cup Kewpie mayonnaise
2 tbsp Bulldog sauce
2 tsp yellow mustard seeds
1 tsp mushroom shoyu (soy sauce)
Dash of hot sauce
pinch MSG

Directions

Prep the mayonnaise
Combine the cornichons, Kewpie, Bulldog sauce, mustard seeds and shoyu in a small bowl. Mix well and season with hot sauce and MSG. Set aside.
Prep the kangaroo
Butterfly the kangaroo fillet open making 2 slits without slicing all the way through. Open up and flatten out, then season with some Shichimi togarashi and salt on both sides.
Combine the egg and milk in a shallow bowl or tray. Place the plain flour in another shallow bowl and season with salt and pepper. Place the panko in a 3rd shallow bowl or tray.
Dip the kangaroo in the flour to coat, then shake off any excess. Dip into the egg mixture to coat then into the panko, turning to completely coat and press the crumbs on. Transfer to a tray.
Cook the kangaroo and assemble
Heat enough oil to shallow fry in a deep frying pan over medium high heat to 180°C.
Add the kangaroo and cook for 4-5 minutes, until golden brown. Transfer to a wire rack over a tray. Season with some salt and more Shichimi togarashi if you like.
Toss the cabbage in the lemon juice until well combined.
Slice the Shokupan into 2cm thick slices. Spread some of the bulldog mayonnaise over the sando bread bases. Top with the cabbage then a portion of kangaroo.
Top with some pickled chillies, then another drizzle of the mayonnaise. Place the other slice of bread on top and slice in half to serve.

Recipe notes

Chef Tips

Butterfly and flatten the fillet evenly

Two slits through the fillet, opened out and gently pressed flat, gives you an even thickness across the whole piece. This matters because uneven meat means uneven cooking. The thicker parts will still be raw by the time the thin edges are overcooked. Take a moment to press the butterflied fillet gently with your palm or the flat of a knife to even it out before crumbing. The whole thing cooks faster and more consistently for it.

Keep the oil at 180°C throughout

Oil temperature is the most important variable in any katsu. Too cool and the crumbs absorb oil and go greasy before browning; too hot and the crust burns while the inside stays raw. I use a cooking thermometer to check the oil before the kangaroo goes in and again between batches. The temperature will drop when the meat hits the oil, so let it recover before adding another piece if you’re cooking in batches.

Storage

Store the components separately in the fridge for up to 2 days. The crumbed kangaroo keeps best on a wire rack rather than sealed in a container, which traps steam and softens the crust. Reheat in an air fryer or a hot oven at 200°C (390°F) for 5-7 minutes to restore some crispiness. The Bulldog mayo will keep in a sealed jar in the fridge for up to 1 week.

FAQs

Can I make this without shokupan? Yes. If you can’t find shokupan locally, you can make it at home using the recipe on andy-cooks.com. In a pinch, a thick white sandwich loaf will work, though you’ll miss the soft, pillowy texture that shokupan brings. Brioche or a good-quality milk bread are the best alternatives if you want something close.

How do I know when the kangaroo is cooked? The crust should be deep golden brown on both sides after 4-5 minutes. Kangaroo is best medium-rare, so the centre should still be pink when you cut through it. It toughens quickly once overcooked, so err on the side of underdone rather than overdone. If you want to be precise, pull it when the thickest part reads 55-60°C (131-140°F) on an instant-read thermometer, then let it rest for 2 minutes before slicing.

Can I deep-fry instead of shallow-fry? Yes, and it’s arguably easier to maintain a consistent oil temperature. Use a neutral oil with a high smoke point such as peanut, rice bran or vegetable oil and keep it at 180°C (355°F). The cook time should be similar at 4-5 minutes for a butterflied fillet. Don’t overcrowd the oil or the temperature will drop too much and the crumbs will absorb more oil than they should.