Māori Toroī

Andy | Dinner | New Zealand

Prep time: 1 hour Cook time: 15 minutes Servings: 4

Toroī is a traditional Māori side dish from Aotearoa (New Zealand), classically made with mussels or pipis and pūhā or watercress, then fermented until sour. This is my simplified home version where I skip the ferment and instead dress the mussels and watercress with garlic, chilli, salt and vinegar to get a similar bright, briny, slightly sour flavour served fresh from the fridge. Serve it on crackers, on toasted sourdough, alongside pan-seared white fish, over steamed rice, or at a hāngī.

Ingredient Notes

Mussels: Try to find fresh, live mussels from a fishmonger or seafood counter. They should smell like the sea, not fishy, and any shells that are open should snap closed when tapped. Most farmed mussels come debearded, but check as you shell them and pull any stragglers off. Green-lipped mussels from New Zealand are the traditional choice if you can get them.

Watercress: A peppery, mustard-family leafy green that grows in cold running waterways. In Australia it’s commercially available at specialty fruit and veg grocers. Store it in a bowl of cold water in the fridge, change the water daily, and it’ll keep for 3 to 4 days. If you can't find watercress or pūhā, you can substitute these for any bitter leafy green such as rocket, mustard greens, Dandelion Greens or even silverbeet.

Bird’s eye chilli: I like to add some heat to this dish so keep the seeds in for extra spice or slice them out for a milder version. A red serrano, long red or dried chilli flakes all work as substitutes. Skip the chilli altogether if you’d rather it milder.

Equipment

Chopping board
Chef’s knife
Large pot with a lid (for the mussels)
Second large pot (for blanching the watercress)
Colander
Two large bowls (one for the ice bath)
Clean jar with a lid

Ingredients

1kg live mussels, cleaned and debearded
¼ cup (60ml) water (for steaming)
2 large bunches (approximately 300g) watercress
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely sliced
1 bird’s eye chilli, finely sliced
¼ tsp sea salt
1½ tbsp white distilled vinegar

Directions

Clean and cook the mussels
Run the mussels under cold running water for 30 minutes to rinse out any grit or dirt.
Drain the mussels in a colander and discard the rinsing water. Place them in a large pot with the ¼ cup of water. Fit with a lid and place over medium heat.
Cook for 5 minutes, or until all the mussels have opened. Turn off the heat and strain through a colander, reserving the cooking liquid in a separate bowl.
Rest the mussels at room temperature for 10 minutes until cool enough to handle. Remove the meat from the shells. Discard any mussels that stayed shut. Pull off any beards you find as you go (most farmed mussels come debearded, but check).
Slice each mussel into 4 or 5 pieces, roughly 5mm thick. Place into a clean mixing bowl and transfer to the fridge while you prep the watercress.
Blanch the watercress
Bring a large pot of water to the boil. Half-fill a large bowl with ice water.
Pick the watercress leaves off the tough stems. Thick stems are fibrous, the leaves and thin stems are what you want. Discard the woody stems.
Add the watercress to the boiling water and blanch for 30 seconds. Strain through a colander, then transfer straight into the ice water to stop the cooking. Stir to cool evenly.
Strain again and squeeze out as much water as you can with your hands.
Roughly chop the watercress on a board and add to the bowl with the mussels.
Combine and dress
Add the sliced garlic, chilli, salt and vinegar to the bowl. Mix well.
Taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking.
Transfer to a clean jar. If the mussels and watercress aren’t fully submerged, top up with the reserved mussel cooking liquid. Seal with a lid.
Serve straight away or refrigerate. Best eaten cold from the fridge.

Recipe notes

Chef Tips

Rinse the mussels properly

Live mussels hold onto sand and grit from the water they came from. Thirty minutes under cold running water gives them time to filter themselves clean and stops you getting a mouthful of grit later. Don’t skip this step, especially if you’re working with wild-harvested mussels.

Reserve the mussel cooking liquid

The briny liquid the mussels release as they open is packed with flavour. Strain it into a small bowl and set aside. Use it to top up the jar so the mussels stay submerged in liquid during storage. Any leftover makes a great base for a seafood soup or risotto.

Discard any mussels that stay shut

Mussels open when heat kills the muscle that holds their shells closed. Any that stay shut after cooking were already dead before they hit the pot, and shouldn’t be eaten. It’s not many usually, but check every one before shelling.

Storage

If you want to store this for later, ensure you use a clean jar and make sure the mussels are fully submerged in liquid. Add a tight fitting lid and store in the fridge for up to three days. I do not recommend freezing this recipe as the watercress will turn mushy.

FAQs

Can I substitute the watercress? Yes. Traditionally toroi uses watercress or pūhā, but any bitter leafy green works. Rocket, mustard greens, dandelion greens or silverbeet are all fair substitutes. Blanch the same way and squeeze dry before combining.

Can I make it the traditional fermented way? You can, but it requires proper equipment and understanding of fermentation to avoid harmful bacteria growth. I don’t cover that here for safety reasons. If you want to explore the traditional fermented version, look for guidance from Māori chefs or experienced fermenters with knowledge of the technique.

Can I flavour it differently? Yes, this is a great base recipe. Peppercorns, sugar, different vinegars, or spices like fennel or coriander seeds all work. Try it plain first, then experiment with additions on the next batch to find your preference.

What do I serve toroi with? Great on crackers, on toasted sourdough, alongside pan-seared white fish, over steamed rice or folded through a salad. Traditionally it’s a hāngī condiment. It’s slightly salty, slightly sour and very refreshing served cold straight from the fridge.